Yet Another HIC1 Problem Topic (F1XV Edition)

By PipoBimbo

Supporter (12)

PipoBimbo's picture

09-12-2018, 17:49


I bought a HB-F1XV one year ago. I powered it on when I received it, it worked fine except for the disk belt, I did not notice any video problem at the time. I put it back in storage and didn't use it since.

I read various topics in this forum and realized I should to something to prevent damage to the board due to capacitor leaks. I don't have a lot of experience in electronics repair but I have already replaced capacitors in a few of my consoles with no problem.

Yesterday I opened the computer without testing it first (yes, I have terrible ideas sometimes).
As expected I noticed capacitor leakage on the HIC1 board. I carefully removed the 3 capacitors with a hot air station, covering the surrounding components with aluminum foil to protect them from the heat.
The rest of the board was very clean (on both sides), the leaking capacitors you see in the F1XDJ repair topic looked OK.

Here's the result, before cleaning :

I cleaned the board with isopropyl alcohol (I also had to scratch the pads a little to remove some dirt but I could not restore them completely). I then replaced the 3 capacitors (I am still not confident enough in my soldering skills to use SMD capacitors so I used through hole ones). Here's the result :

I put everything back together and now I notice video issues (if it ain't broke don't fix it...). I tried to capture them in the following picture but it's not easy due to the refresh rate :

The big dark blue areas are not the issue, they are only here when I take a picture :) The problem is there are darker lines you see in the light blue areas, and they keep on moving up and down rapidly.

The problem is also apparent on my HDTV so it's not my CRT's fault (I use it regularly with various consoles and it works great).
The RGB cable is the same I use for my F900 so I don't think it's the culprit either.
I use a 100V power converter from Japan, again it works great with all the different devices I throw at it.

So, do you guys have any idea what could fix this ("oh yeah, it's the famous C11 defect" would be nice) ?
Could it be I damaged a component on the board while replacing the capacitors ? Or maybe something totally not related to the HIC board ?
Is my only option to read the service manual and try to find the faulty component with a multimeter (I have very little experience with this but if there's no other solution...) ?

Thanks for reading !

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By Alexey

Guardian (2154)

Alexey's picture

09-12-2018, 18:07

color 15,4,4

But seriously, I think some joints on the board no longer work properly. I would re-solder every joint that had signs of corrosion.

By PipoBimbo

Supporter (12)

PipoBimbo's picture

10-12-2018, 20:00

OK, I'll try that starting with the components closest to the 100 uF capacitor who seem to have suffered the most.
Thank you !

By mals

Supporter (2)

mals's picture

11-12-2018, 07:53

I'm thinking one of your problems is the poor connection on Q1 ( Shown with the purple ring where it would go. ), same problem I had on

But since capacitors are intended to help reduce ripples, I'm thinking it could also be one of those capacitors.
One way to test this would be to temporarily set another CAP touching the same leg and polarity of the CAP.
Be sure if testing this way, the leg polarity must match as this increases the amount of capacitance

By RetroTechie

Paragon (1551)

RetroTechie's picture

11-12-2018, 13:33

Soldering on the + leg of that big purple electrolytic looks crap, re-do it! (maybe other leg too? Can't see on photo). And use flux, for example add a few mm. of rosin core solder wire.

Same for IC pin right next to that (pin 12 of IC with the sticker on it). But be careful not to overheat that IC!

If that doesn't help: are the darker lines also in the middle part of the screen, just less visible? If so, you may have a general power supply issue, like a failing capacitor on the +5V rail. Looking at schematic, a prime suspect would be C10. Should be in the main power circuit (on the main board I think), near a power transistor-like part marked "3052V". You could check by putting a known good capacitor in parallel with C10, or just replace (up to a few hundred uF or so is fine).

Also: check polarity for electrolytic caps by measuring powered up, and comparing with polarity marking on the capacitor. Sometimes polarity markings on a board are incorrect, with capacitors installed as marked (and thus wrong). Or markings correct but original capacitors installed the wrong way, such that replacements must go in reversed. Not sure if that's an issue with these HIC boards, but checking while powered removes any doubt there...

By PipoBimbo

Supporter (12)

PipoBimbo's picture

11-12-2018, 20:36

Yes the soldering you see on the pictures was not great but I did not want to damage the pads by scratching too much dirt. I already tried to make a cleaner job since but the results were the same. I'll try to clean a little more.

I have other capacitors available so I'll also try a few replacements.

The lines look fairly similar in the middle of the screen, I did not notice any difference. I'll try to check the C10 capacitor just in case.

Thank you all for your tips, I'll try this at the end of the week (I probably won't have time before that).