It seems that they have no "Mode" button (not really an issue... I just have my "Maze of Galious" configuration using all 6 buttons + start & mode).
Ordered 2 units to check that. The other cheap-chinese models I had were quite crappy (I just used the eletronics inside as interface to other joypad/sticks).
If they're good clones of the [url=http://segaretro.org/Six_Button_Control_Pad_(Mega_Drive)]original sega 6-button controller[/url], the MODE button sits in the right shoulder of the pad and it's very subtle. It normally won't show up in pictures easily, as you can see in the picture bellow:
Please publish a review of that clone here if you can. :)
sd_snatcher's assumption is correct. The mode button of the Hyperkin GN6 controller sits in the right shoulder of the controller. You can see it in this video review (at 0:53): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Phqc8H5h7DI
These seems to be some high quality replicas of the Megadrive 6-button controller.
I noticed you can get the same pads from Europe, although it will cost a bit more - but, depending on how many you order and factoring in customs and VAT, in the end it will probably be cheaper.
sd_snatcher's assumption is correct. The mode button of the Hyperkin GN6 controller sits in the right shoulder of the controller. You can see it in this video review (at 0:53): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Phqc8H5h7DI
Great ! I received 2 cheap chinese clones last year where the "Mode" push button was removed, but the eletronics inside still had the wiring and everything. I complained as they were advertised with all MD buttons and had a 50% reimbursement... before finally using them to wire X-Arcade pads to MSX :)
Please publish a review of that clone here if you can.
Yes, I'll try to
I moved this conversation from the other tread to this one, where its on topic. :)
And yeah I already have a wireless 8bitdo :). At Nijmegen I was also recommended this wired controller which is officially licensed by Sega and apparently really good quality. They’re sold in Europe in various shops (e.g. nedgame.nl) as Retro Bit MegaDrive (do a google shopping search).
Thank you for the tip! I also have the Hyperkin GN6, which is good but not as good as the 8bitdo pad.
For those who are after a cost/benefit solution, these joypads are cheap and have a pretty decent quality. They not come close to the 8bitdo quality, but are pretty usable nonetheless.
Hi Snatcher,
Those are indeed very cheap. Do you know if the PCB quality is decent too ? I used to buy some really hyper-crappy Megadrive joypads from eBay just for the PCB (in order to solder arcade-style controls on it), before reallizing the PCB was cardboard, bending with temperature / age and humidity, and not working after some months (maybe the crappiest things I've ever bought on eBay, even if that was only 2€ or so...). So I now have a couple of arcade joysticks on which to change the PCB and solder again...
Yes, I know your pain. I also purchased some of those pads, and they literally dissolved within months. Many of them were so thin that they crumbled in my hands while playing.
While the build quality of this white joypad isn't stellar, they're still *much* better than those self-dissolving joypads. It's quality is very similar to the joypads shown in this article.
Keep in mind that at this price range, you won't get fiberglass PCBs. They'll all come with phenolic paper PCBs. If done correctly, phenolic paper PCBs will last long (albeit always present some warping), as many cheaper MSX models prove it.
Those self-dissolving pads not only have poor quality phenolic paper PCBs, but they're also too thin. The white pad PCB is almost twice as thick as those PCBs.
As you experienced, when the PCB warps too much it will disrupt the copper tracks, and then it will stop working. But Since you're assembling the PCBs on a big arcade controller, one trick to prevent the warping is to glue their back to a small piece of polished wood, or a fiberglass prototype PCB with a good quality parquet flooring glue.
You can also try to screw the PCB to a piece of wood using a frame around the joypad PCB.
I just ordered a Retro Bit MegaDrive controller, I’ll let you know what I think of it once I get it .
As you experienced, when the PCB warps too much it will disrupt the copper tracks, and then it will stop working. But Since you're assembling the PCBs on a big arcade controller, one trick to prevent the warping is to glue their back to a small piece of polished wood, or a fiberglass prototype PCB with a good quality glue.
That's the kind of solutions I like
I've been banging my head against the walls for a while before noticing the PCB were bent (I was first suspecting some kind of misuse on my side...). I'll order some new cheap controllers and try your suggestions. I had a stock of spare controllers in the attic, but with the temperature changes over there, they are all deadly-bent now !
EDIT: I have the feeling your PCBs are better than the ones I have here: