Panasonic FS-A1WSX: RAM upgrade problem

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By Grauw

Ascended (10699)

Аватар пользователя Grauw

19-05-2020, 17:33

At the bottom of the wiki page there is a link to the circuit diagram which can also be helpful.

By Diode

Supporter (4)

Аватар пользователя Diode

19-05-2020, 20:59

gdx wrote:

To avoid this kind of problem, use flux, do not heat too long and hold the pad with the iron only when the pump sucks.

I tried not to touch the pad with the iron for more than a second, but I did touch the pad briefly before using the pump. That might be part of the issue.

Meits wrote:

To avoid this from happening to my ram expasion project to one of my machins I bought a desoldering station.

I'm definitely going to consider that. I still have some pins to desolder, after all. It isn't cheap, but it would be worth it if it saves my computer and if I get a lot of use out of it.

Daemos wrote:

Are you located in the netherlands. If you are not too far out I find it no problem to fix the machine for you.

That's very kind, but unfortunately, I don't live in the Netherlands. Thanks for offering, though!

Pentarou wrote:

IC 21 Pin 5 is NC, so doesn't matter.
IC 24 Pin 1 is D0, just bridge it to IC 23 Pin 2.

That certainly makes it a lot easier!

Thanks for the link, Grauw. I have looked at the circuit diagram and that has made things clearer. Following the traces is much simpler now. Perhaps this isn't as scary as I thought...

By Daemos

Paragon (2044)

Аватар пользователя Daemos

19-05-2020, 21:47

Quote:

Perhaps this isn't as scary as I thought...

It isn't at all. Once you have done it the dopamine rush will reward you well and not to mention the new skill of fixing that you have learned. You can do this trust me. Just take your time and practice. Use thin wire and do not bake the solder. Heat flow let go thats the trick then build sockets in but remember to use the expensive ones. You can recognize them by the round inserts.

Lastly use a multimeter to check all the other traces. Some break without showing it to you. Check ALL connections.

By Grauw

Ascended (10699)

Аватар пользователя Grauw

19-05-2020, 22:12

Diode wrote:
Meits wrote:

To avoid this from happening to my ram expasion project to one of my machins I bought a desoldering station.

I'm definitely going to consider that. I still have some pins to desolder, after all. It isn't cheap, but it would be worth it if it saves my computer and if I get a lot of use out of it.

I also have a manual desoldering pump, but it’s true that everybody always recommends a station like Meits recommended because the manual pumps indeed put more pressure on the board and risk damage. Especially true for aged boards I reckon. I will also probably get one at some point.

By meits

Scribe (6530)

Аватар пользователя meits

19-05-2020, 23:32

This Philips cartridge slot module was done within 10 minutes.

By Nprod

Expert (100)

Аватар пользователя Nprod

20-05-2020, 21:14

There are multiple approaches to fixing pads depending on the case.

- If you just have a lifted pad still attached to the trace, the best thing to do it glue it back down with 2-part epoxy resin. They're pretty small so you should use a toothpick to apply it.
- If the pad is missing only on the top side of the board but not the bottom, you can use a machine pin header or socket, then bridge the trace to the pin's leg with solder. I had to do this recently on a Sony HB-75 and you can't really tell anything was wrong there.
- If the pad is completely missing the prettiest and "professional" way is to use copper eyelets, which are riveted with a special hand tool and then solder-bridged to the trace. But if you don't want to bother with buying those and don't care about aesthetics, a simple bodge wire is cheap and effective.

"Grauw" wrote:

the manual pumps indeed put more pressure on the board and risk damage

Manual pumps are totally fine with the right technique. I have a desoldering gun but there are cases where i prefer to use the manual pump, for example to clear a plugged via. Instead of heating the pad and then cupping over it with the pump, you can have the pump ready over the pin on one side of the board. Then you heat it with the iron from the other side and trigger the pump in the exact moment you need.

By Wierzbowsky

Guardian (3568)

Аватар пользователя Wierzbowsky

21-05-2020, 11:42

I am using the electric solder sucker and it does the job in most of cases:

https://youtu.be/pCECO5GuPkU

By Pencioner

Scribe (1542)

Аватар пользователя Pencioner

21-05-2020, 11:59

I use this tool and it works nicely: https://www.electrokit.com/produkt/avlodningspenna-30w/

By Diode

Supporter (4)

Аватар пользователя Diode

02-06-2020, 22:16

I did more work on the A1WSX recently; I thought I should let you know how it went.

Before I started, I practiced desoldering on an old amplifier. The components were a little larger, and so it might not have been the best thing to use, but I felt ready to return to the computer.

Even though I was careful to use flux and to apply the soldering iron at the moment the pump was activated, I lifted two more traces - pin 5 (not connected) and pin 13 of IC23. Fortunately, the trace at pin 13 had lifted but had not broken and I was able to fix it with epoxy resin. For pin 1, I attached the bodge-iest of bodge wires. Everything seemed fine when I tested the pins with a multimeter.


When I reassembled and switched on the computer, I was relieved to see this:

It looks like it was successful! I'm not entirely happy with my soldering, but I think that I might make things worse if I tried to "fix" it at the moment.

Thank you again for your advice, everyone. I really appreciate it.

By Grauw

Ascended (10699)

Аватар пользователя Grauw

02-06-2020, 22:23

Glad you got it to work! Many operations leave a scar, and this one looks pretty tidy Smile.

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